You might remember the ugly Frankenshed behind the Millie’s Remodel house. It’s finally time to try to move this ugly monster. Whether we’re successful or not, I’ll share the Easiest & Cheapest Way to Move a Shed!

Millie’s Remodel: The Easiest & Cheapest Way to Move a Shed

A long long time ago (back before we had children), Pretty Handsome Guy and I were making a move from Philadephia to Charlottesville, VA. We packed our rented UHaul full to the brim and were ready to start the new adventure.

We were backing the truck out when we heard a loud scraping sound and suddenly the truck was stuck. The front wheels were still in the driveway, but the back of the truck had bottomed out on the crowned pavement (turns out a road really isn’t flat from side to side.) We were blocking traffic and didn’t know what to do. I tried calling UHaul but they said it was operator error and we needed to call a large truck tow company.

As I was searching around for someone to help, our neighbor took one look at the situation and ran to the back of the driveway. He came back and created a lever with some blocks and a 4×4 post. Then he put one end under the bumper and proceeded to perch on the other end of the 4×4 bouncing up and down. He told Pretty Handsome Guy to give the truck a little gas. Although my neighbor couldn’t have weighed more than 125 lbs., the lever gave us enough lift to get us unstuck.

Here we are about twenty years later, and I still remember that 4×4 lever trick! But, I have a few more tricks up my sleeve, because although you might be able to lift a shed with a 4×4 and some blocks, how do you move it from one side of your yard to the other?

The Easiest & Cheapest Way to Move a Shed:

Today, in the Millie’s Remodel updates we will attempt to move the Frankenshed.

This eyesore sits directly outside the back bedroom and I can’t even express how ugly it is with poor construction and ugly siding. Then there’s the piece of plexiglass screwed over the window opening.

ugly shed in backyard

But, the worst thing about this shed is the siding that is cracked, and the caulk used to fill the seams. Now you can understand why I don’t have high hopes for moving this monster in one piece. I kept the dumpster over the weekend because I think there’s a very good chance this shed will fall apart the minute we try to move it. If that happens, I’ll cut it apart in pieces and top off the dumpster.

But, hey, you’re no idiot. I’m sure you are thinking, “Brittany, if you title this post How to Move a Shed, that means you probably were successful. ”

Well, you’ll just have to see if you’re right and watch the video:


  • 2 – 2″ x 4″ x 16′ (or as long as you can transport)
  • 3 – 4″ x 4″ x 10′
  • 6-8 Cinderblocks (depending on the size of your shed, you need least 6 to set the shed)
  • 4 – 3″ PVC pipes (at least as long as the length of your floor joists)
  • Drainage Gravel
  • Carjack
  • Level

Tips on Moving a Shed:

  1. Empty the shed (less weight is better)
  2. Have a helper or two
  3. Use longer lumber for better leverage
  4. Measure and determine the final resting location
  5. Make sure the final location is clear of obstacles (especially low branches)
  6. Pick a path and clear any obstacles
  7. Use 2x4s to act as tracks
  8. Use large PVC pipes to act as rollers
  9. PVC pipes roll best when perpendicular to the floor joists
  10. Elevate the shed on blocks off the ground (to prevent rot) unless you have a concrete pad

How to Move a Shed:

Set a block near the shed and slip the end of a 4×4 under the shed while resting on the block If you can’t get the 4×4 underneath, raise the shed up with a car jack, then slip the 4×4 underneath.

Lift the shed and slide 2x4s under the shed in the direction you want to roll the shed.

Set one PVC pipe under the shed in the middle of the shed. Release the 4×4 slowly. If the shed doesn’t tip toward you, you can add a little weight to the front to help it tip.

Lay two more PVC pipes on top of the 2x4s under the shed perpendicular to the 2×4’s and to the floor joists. Then slip one more PVC pipe in toward the front.

Remove the blocks and the 4×4 (but keep it nearby). Push your shed and let the PVC pipes roll underneath. As soon as one PVC pipe pops out the back, bring it to the front and roll onto it.

To turn the shed, put the 4×4 inside the door frame against one corner. Press against the other end of the 4×4 outside the door frame to pivot the shed. (You can see how this is done in the video.) Adjust your 2×4 tracks and place the PVC pipes perpendicular to the floor joists, then push the shed.

Perpendicular or Parallel to the Joists, why does it matter?

When the PVC pipes are placed perpendicular to the joists, the floor framing touches the pipes in multiple spots (as shown below.) This allows the shed to roll very easily.

The pipes can roll when parallel to the joists, but it’s much harder because the framing is not resting on the pipes at as many points, and the PVC may bow in between the blocking. You can certainly use the pipes parallel to the joists for pushing the shed out into an open area where you can then set the pipes perpendicular to the joists.

A Makeover for Frankenshed:

To clean up the look of the shed, my assistant Brett built a new door. Then he added trim and used the old bathroom window for a new window. Once my painter painted the trim and siding to match the house, it was unrecognizable.

I can’t believe this is the same shed, can you?

before and after shed makeover

The old patchy privacy fence between the neighbor’s property was removed (it practically fell down when we removed the patched section).

Brett installed a new PVC privacy fence to match the one in the front of the property.

PVC privacy fence

Now that the exterior has a beautiful front and backyard, it’s time to start focusing on finishing the interior. Stay tuned for more Millie’s Remodel updates!

A special thank you to the Millie’s Remodel Sponsors:

The Millie’s Remodel project sponsors have donated materials for the Millie’s Remodel project. As you know I am very particular about the brands I work with and recommend. As a general contractor, I choose the products used on my projects wisely to make sure they last a lifetime. Therefore, I have no reservations putting my name behind each and every one of these sponsors.

millies remodel sponsors logos

Growing up, my parents always told me homemade gifts meant more to the recipient than a store-bought gift. If you’re like me, and enjoy making things and have a lot of wood scraps, you’ll love making many of these Quick DIY Trays and Gift Boxes!

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box

Several years ago I shared this tutorial, but I’m updating the post to show you an alternative base for your tray. You can use a variety of thin woods to cover the plywood for a more decorative look. Previously I used leftover Timberchic end caps. But, this past weekend I whipped up a tray for my girlfriend’s birthday using vintage rulers and I couldn’t be happier with the results.


Instead the self-adhesive Timberchic, use wood glue to affix any thin wood to a plywood base. Then build the sides and you have yourself a beautiful gift tray (or gift box if you make your sides taller.)


Now it’s time to share the tutorial with you because this will be easy, quick, and frugal (all things I like in a good DIY project!) Let’s learn How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box.

Question: What’s better than giving a one-of-a-kind gift? What’s better than giving a gift basket that will be useful long after the contents have been consumed? And what’s better than spending money on a gift basket?

Answer: Building your own Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box that will be used long after the contents are gone and it doesn’t have to cost you an arm or a leg when you are using scraps from your workshop! #Winning

These rustic beauties are perfect for filling with a bottle of wine or to use as the base for a cellophane-wrapped gift basket.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

The tray is probably my favorite because you can use it to serve lunch on the porch (or breakfast in bed.) And who doesn’t love a good tray to corral loose items in your living room, bedroom, or kitchen?

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

The crate is a close second in my heart because it makes the perfect place to store toiletries for a guest. But, we all know it can also be used to organize desk supplies and much much more.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

What do you need to make this Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box you ask? Well here’s the 411 on this project.


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl



Cut your plywood base to size. (My tray was 11″ x 15″ and the gift box was 4″ x 10″.)

Set your slats on top of the plywood to figure out their ideal placement.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Use a ruler or square and your pencil to mark the cut offs.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Cut the slats and return to the plywood base. If you are using the TimberChic end caps, remove the adhesive backing and place the slat on the plywood. (If using other slats, use wood glue to adhere them to the base.)

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

For a perfect edge, you can turn your base upside down and trim the edges on the table saw. (Not necessary, but gives you a cleaner edge.)

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Line up your side material against the base and mark where to cut each piece.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Cut the sides at a 45 degree angle to create mitered edges (or simplify the project by cutting 90 degree ends). Test fit the sides to make sure you have a tight miter at each corner. Sand the sides smooth to remove any rough spots.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Paint your sides with Fusion paint (or chalk paint of your choosing.)

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Wipe off immediately for a rustic look.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Run a line of wood glue along the side of your base.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Press the sides in place.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Nail brad nails through the sides and into the base to secure the sides while the glue dries.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Find the centers on the two smaller sides of your tray. Center the door pulls on the sides.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Attach the handle to the side of the tray with provided screws.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Add felt pads to the bottom of the tray to prevent scratching of surfaces.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Your tray and gift box are done! Fill them up with goodies your recipient will love.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl


A bottle of wine should fit nicely in the gift box:

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

And when the gift tray and box are empty, they will be enjoyed for years to come.

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

Did you like this simple gift idea? Well, there’s lots more where that came from! Here’s a gallery of other DIY Gift Ideas!

Like using vintage rulers? Check out this frame I made with more vintage rulers:

How to Custom Build a Vintage Ruler Picture Frame

Or these scrap moulding trays:

DIY Scrap Moulding Trays | Pretty Handy Girl

Happy gifting!


It’s amazing how serving food on a rustic tray can elevate your standard meal or dessert into an elegant occasion. This simple decorative rustic pallet serving tray is a simple project anyone can do!

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray

When I worked on a deck makeover with my sister, Caitlin (of Symmetry Designs), we shopped for a lot of the accessories ahead of time. She wanted me to find the perfect Bali-esque tray. Unfortunately I was coming up empty-handed. But, sometimes, you just have to DIY it! This Rustic Pallet Serving Tray was the brainchild of my sister, but I took her idea and ran with it.

Here’s how to make one for yourself.


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)


Fold a piece of paper into eights. Cut a design along the edge. (I used a simple scallop shape like this “}”.)

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

When you unfold the paper, you should have a paper template to use for tracing.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Trace the template onto a piece of thin plywood.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Use a jigsaw or band saw to cut out the shape. You might find this tutorial helpful for cutting out intricate shapes.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Lay your plywood shape on top of the rustic boards. Move the boards around until you like the sections that will make up the tray. Mark a square around the shape with a ruler.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Cut the boards down to size using the pencil mark as a guide.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Dry fit the boards together on the plywood shape.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Wet both the plywood shape and the boards with a damp rag.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Apply Gorilla Glue to the plywood shape.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Set the rustic boards into the glue on the plywood shape.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Weigh the boards down with weights or heavy books.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Allow to dry for at least an hour. Remove the weights and clamp the boards onto a work surface (with the area needing to be cut hanging over the edge. Make sure there is clearance for the jig saw blade. You’ll need to cut half the boards and then turn and re-clamp to cut the entire circumference. The Rockwell JawStand works beautifully for this task.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Draw a pencil line 1 inch out from the plywood shape. Cut around the pencil line with a jig saw.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Sand edges and grooves with sandpaper or Dremel Multi-Max.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Measure and mark the location of the handles on the tray.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Pre-drill holes using a bit that is the same size as the handle screws.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Flip the tray over and drill countersink holes with a larger drill bit.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

Attach the handles with the screws. The screw heads should sink into the plywood.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

If you want a truly rustic look, lightly sand your handles.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

If you are going to use your tray for food, use a plate or doily under the food.

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

What do you think? Do you like this beautiful rustic tray? Think you could make one? I bet you could!

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray | Pretty Handy Girl

You can see this tray and our Bali-inspired deck makeover here.


Pin for later!

This DIY Rustic Pallet Serving Tray is easy to create with a cutout pattern | Plank serving tray | Pretty Handy Girl #DIY #woodworking #DIYtray #servingtray #rustichomedecor

A common decor item with farmhouse style is a wood serving tray. Trays are an easy way to add style and function. This DIY Farmhouse Style Serving Tray with handles is so easy to create, I can’t wait to show you how it’s done!

DIY Farmhouse Industrial Serving TrayDIY Farmhouse Style Serving Tray

Hi there! Chelsea here from Making Manzanita, where it’s all about making your house a home! I’m so excited to be with you today. I love renovating and incorporating farmhouse style decor into our home. One of the easiest ways to decorate is with a serving tray. You can set it on a coffee table to protect surfaces from drinks, use it to style with a plant and a candle, or use it for serving!

Let’s get busy making this super easy DIY Farmhouse Style Serving Tray!


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)


Step 1: Paint edges of wood

Using a foam brush, paint the edges of your wood with black acrylic craft paint. You may be wondering why this is the first step. I didn’t love the freshly cut raw edges of the wood I used. To give the serving tray a distressed industrial farmhouse feel, I painted the cut ends and corners with black paint.

painting wood slats with black paint

Step 2: Emphasize the texture of the wood to add character

If the wood you use for your farmhouse wood tray has a raised wood grain, dip your paintbrush into the black paint and lightly run over the top for a rustic look. This step enhances the rustic texture of the wood.

foam dry brushing black onto wood siding

If your wood has a smooth surface, you can get a similar look by using a dry brush technique with a bristle brush. This works best if you use an old, ratty-looking bristle paintbrush. You put a little bit of paint on the brush and then wipe most of it off on a rag or paper towels, so the brush is essentially dry. Then lightly run the paintbrush over the top of the wood. The result is an enhanced grain pattern and a distressed farmhouse look!

Step 3: Assemble farmhouse wood tray

Once the paint has dried, it’s time to assemble your farmhouse wood tray. Start by laying out the three larger pieces of wood horizontally. Next lay the smaller pieces of wood on top vertically at each edge. Allow about 1 inch from the edge of the tray.

brad nail gun laying on top of assembled wood tray

Before you start nailing, make sure everything is square. Use a nail gun to nail the smaller pieces of wood into the larger from the top of the tray with a couple of nails into each board.

Step 4: Add handles

Measure the center of the vertical pieces and lay painter’s tape on top of them. Measure the width of your cabinet pull and mark where the holes should be drilled on top of the tape. The painter’s tape helps you see the marks on darker wood.

mark handle sides centered on tray

Line up your drill bit (match the diameter of the bit to the handle screws) on the marks and drill holes through both pieces of wood on your serving tray.

To get a flat surface on the bottom of the farmhouse wood tray, use a countersink bit on the underside of the tray. (If you don’t have a countersink bit, use a larger drill bit to create a recess for the screw heads to sink into. This helps protect any surfaces you set the wood tray on from getting scratched.

Countersink drilled into wood tray bottom

Flip the tray over and admire your new farmhouse style industrial serving tray.

rustic gray painted wood farmhouse tray

You can stop here, but to add a monogram, keep reading.

Step 5: Cut stencil

Using a vinyl cutting machine, design your monogram and cut your stencil.

Budget Tip: Use contact paper from the Dollar Tree as a cheap one-time-use stencil material.

adhesive shelf paper for vinyl stencil

To recreate a monogram like mine with an industrial farmhouse style, here are the details:

  • Font: Baskerville Old Face
  • Font Size: 489
  • Circles were created by drawing two circles with the shape tool around the letter

Step 6. Apply stencil

Cut and apply transfer tape to fit over your stencil. (Using transfer tape will help keep everything lined up and centered as you’ve designed it.)

weed excess vinyl from letter J stencil

Peel the stencil and transfer tape off the backing and remove the part of the design that you would like painted (in my case, this is the circle border and the letter).

remove transfer paper from adhesive stencil

Measure the center of your serving tray and press down your stencil. Carefully peel the transfer tape away from the stencil. (I found that the ghost wood I was using didn’t really “grab” the stencil very well, so this part was kind of tricky for me. If you’re using a smoother wood, it should be a little easier.)

center adhesive stencil on tray

Step 7: Seal stencil

There’s a magic step that I use for all of my wood signs and stencil projects that prevent stencils from bleeding. Before painting the stencil, seal it with Mod Podge. Rub a little Mod Podge over the stencil edges once it’s adhered to your wood. Wait for it to dry to the touch before painting (usually about 15-20 minutes).

seal edges of stencil with mod podge

You can read more here about this awesome hack for how to stencil on wood. (I did find that this rough ghost wood required more Mod Podge than normal because of the grooves in the wood and the stencil not sticking as well as it normally does.)

Step 8: Paint over stencil

Once the Mod Podge is dry, paint over the stencil with acrylic craft paint using a foam paintbrush. Blotting the paintbrush up and down many times rather than brushing across the stencil will prevent the paint from bleeding under the stencil.

painted letter j on tray

Step 9: Remove stencil

When you’re done painting, you can peel up the stencil immediately except in areas where there are small intricate details that may smudge. In those cases, wait until the paint is dry to the touch before removing the stencil entirely.

remove stencil

Look at those nice crisp paint lines! So pretty!

finished rustic wood serving tray with J monogram in circle

Step 10: Seal serving tray

To protect your serving tray, seal it before use with 2-3 coats of a spray sealer.

J Monogram Rustic wood serving tray

There you have it! A DIY Farmhouse Style Serving Tray with handles that adds style and function to your decor!

Industrial pipe handles on serving tray

I love the industrial vibes that the handles and the gray textured wood bring to this serving tray.

The best part about this wood farmhouse tray is that no one else will have one exactly like it (just one of the many reasons I love making my own home decor).

farmhouse serving tray close up view. Letter J Monogram

Next time a friend comes over for a cup of coffee, you can grab this serving tray with handles to serve up coffee and snacks.

Farmhouse rustic wood serving tray on couch

She’ll surely ask where you got such a cute wood tray. You’ll answer proudly that you made it yourself!

rustic wood serving tray on black couch, pillows in background

Thanks for joining me today while I showed you how to make this DIY Farmhouse Style Serving Tray.

Chelsea - Making Manzanita

My name is Chelsea and I am the founder of Making Manzanita ( I’ve found that many women don’t know how to start decorating or updating their homes, which is why my passion is helping others make their house a home they love. At my blog, Making Manzanita, my readers enjoy decor inspiration, craft & DIY tutorials written in plain English and simple homemaking advice to run their homes more efficiently. One of the things my readers love most is my perspective of working with what you have because your house doesn’t have to be perfect to feel like home.

I’m mama to the most adorable little man (with a little baby girl coming soon!) and wife to my DIY partner. We love our life in the beautiful Central Oregon as we continue our journey to renovate our 2nd fixer upper. We love to inspire others with budget-friendly renovation projects, like our faux shiplap wall and wood air conditioner cover made with pallets.

You can connect with me on Instagram, Facebook or Pinterest.

What a great tutorial! If you like this DIY farmhouse tray, I know you’ll also love these other DIY trays:

How to Build a Quick DIY Tray & Gift Box | Pretty Handy Girl

DIY Wood Slat Tray and Gift Box


DIY Scrap Moulding Trays | Pretty Handy Girl

DIY Scrap Moulding Tray


Rustic Pallet Serving Tray

Rustic Pallet Serving Tray

It’s spring-time and the perfect time to start a garden. Build this raised garden bed with or without a cucumber trellis and start gardening tomorrow!

Raised planter bed and cucumber trellisHow to Build a Raised Garden Bed with a Cucumber Trellis

Is there anything better than vegetables grown in your garden? They are hard to top! Cucumbers are very easy to grow, but do best if you give them a little extra care. When we decided to build a second raised vegetable garden, we decided to plan in advance to make it a strategic cucumber garden with a raised wooden trellis. We’re excited to show you how to build a DIY raised cucumber garden.

Hey y’all! We are Morgan & Sean McBride, and we blog at where we are crafting our first home into our dream home and empowering you to try DIY. We share with our readers a variety of projects aimed at helping new homeowners make their homes their own. Some highlights include: our completely DIY coastal kitchen makeover; our tropical hammock oasis; and our budget laundry room refresh! Our most recent big project was our DIY concrete stone-look patio, which we are obsessed with. I’m likely to be found sharing behind the scenes and lots of laughs over on Instagram Stories, so pop over and say hey!

How to select a location for your cucumber garden:

The number one thing to remember when selecting a location for your cucumber garden is to make sure it receives plenty of light. At least five hours of morning sun is ideal, and afternoon sun on top of that is good too. You also need to be prepared to water your cucumber garden a lot because they need a lot of water, plus they are growing in the summer, when it is hard to keep these things hydrated.


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Build your garden upside down. Start by cutting your 4″x4″ into four equal pieces one foot long each using a miter saw.

Cut your 8-foot-long 2″x8″ in half with a circular saw or miter saw.

Lay out your 10′ boards with your now-4′ boards on either end and place your 4″x4″ pieces in the corner. (It helps to lay a small piece of scrap wood in each corner to keep the 2″x8″s raised a half inch or so, but make sure the posts stay on the ground.)

Attach your four posts to the inside of each board keeping corners flush using the decking screws.

Dig four post holes in your garden location and install your flipped over, constructed raised bed by placing the long ends of the posts in the holes.

How to build a cucumber trellis:


  • Three- 2″x2″x8′ boards
  • One- 2’x8′ lattice
  • Brad nailer
  • 1″ brad nails
  • Circular saw

A cucumber trellis is super easy to build. First, build the frame by cutting two 4-foot-long pieces out of one of the boards and three 3-foot-long boards out of the other two.

Use your nailer to attach the three foot boards to the inside of the four foot boards with two lining up on the outside edges and one exactly in the center.

Next, lay your lattice down on the frame and cut it along the edge with your circular saw. It should be 3 feet, 3 inches. Do that again with the excess to create a second piece for the other side.

Lay the two pieces of lattice down on the frame, marrying them next to each other in center. Use your nailer to go around and nail down the lattice to the frame.

Now, cut two 2-foot-long boards with a 45 degree angle from the remains of the 2″x2″ to serve as your legs.
Finally, position the two legs on the back of the frame and nail the frame down to the legs.

Add garden soil to fill your raised bed about 3/4 of the way full and then add the cucumber trellis on one side. You want to pick a spot that is accessible from the side so that you can easily reach under the trellis.

We are so excited to plant cucumbers in this garden this spring. The trellis will keep them off the ground and give the cucumber plants the support that they need to grow successfully. As a bonus, we also plan to plant lettuce under the shade of the cucumber trellis, where they should thrive out of the direct summer sun.

Thanks for having us and be sure to come visit us at

You can also connect with us on facebook, instagram, pinterest, youtube, twitter, and etsy.

A Note from Pretty Handy Girl:

I love this project that Morgan and Sean built, especially with spring right around the corner. It’s definitely time to start preparing your garden for the growing season.

You may have noticed that the lumber used for the raised planter bed and trellis is pressure-treated lumber. You should know that there is some debate over whether it is safe to use pressure treated lumber for an edible garden. Personally I like to use Cedar or other naturally rot-resistant materials to prevent the chemicals from leaching into your food. You can also choose to prime or line the inside of the bed. I’ll leave the decision up to you.

You may also like this tutorial for building a rot resistant raised planter bed:

How to Build a Rot-Resistant Raised Planter Bed | Pretty Handy Girl


Need a quick gift using scrap wood? A Creative Block Desk & Art Utensil Holder is an easy and fun gift to make and certainly a project that you can customize to meet your needs. Best of all, the kids can help with the painting step!


Creative Block Desk & Art Utensil Holder

Mother’s Day is this coming weekend! Have you decided how to show her your appreciation and love?! I did! My mother is a professional artist. She creates amazing paintings that inspire others and brightens their homes. For Mother’s Day I wanted to brighten her studio with these art utensil holders. I call them “Creative Blocks.”

Go ahead and raid your scrap pile and join us as we make these colorful and fun Creative Block Desk & Art Utensil Holders.


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)



1. Block assembly: Select two 2×4″ scraps cut to the same length. Spread glue on one board and sandwich them together.


Clamp the wood together and drill two small holes to countersink the heads of the screws. Drive two screws into the bottom of the wood to hold the pieces together.


Use a band saw, jigsaw, or table saw to trim off the rounded edges of the wood so you have a square block of wood with straight corners.


Putty any cracks or holes. Sand until smooth.


2. Creating the mask:

If you have a craft cutter (Silhouette or Cricut) you can create a mask in vinyl easily. But, if you don’t you can use the computer to print out your words. Lay the print out on top of a strip of Painter’s Tape. Use a few pieces of tape to secure the corners.


Trace around the words with the X-acto knife (be sure to have a few fresh blades on hand.) Transfer the resulting cut-out tape onto the block of wood. Press the edges of the tape mask to secure the tape.


3. Painting the block: Paint a base color onto the block. Then use a brush and/or palette knife to dab thick paint over the block (minus the base.) Use the X-acto knife to gently peel off the tape mask. Let the paint dry thoroughly overnight.


4. Drilling Holes:  After the paint has dried completely, mark the location of the utensil holes with a pencil. Put a piece of painter’s tape on the drill bit to mark the depth of your holes. Clamp the block and drill holes at each pencil mark.


Dump sawdust out of the holes.

Wrap up the blocks in gift wrap and enjoy the look of joy as your Mom opens her Creative Block Mother’s Day gift!



You know, as an artist myself, I almost loved these too much to give them away. But, my Mom is worth it. (And I can make another set if I want ;-).)


For more last-minute Mother’s Day gift ideas and many other creative projects, check out the Gift Ideas section here on the blog.

PHGFancySignIf you liked this project, you’ll love these floating picture frames using more 2×4 scrap wood.


Today we’re prepping to tile in the kitchen and bathrooms. Having seen firsthand how much damage water can cause to a home, I want to show you this tutorial for How to Waterproof Floors!

Waterproofing Floors in Any Room

Renovations are finally moving forward at Millie’s Remodel. This is the point where I feel like we already hit rock bottom and now we’re finally on the rebound. You might remember we used a self-leveling concrete in the kitchen last week. Now it’s time to waterproof the floors to prevent damage from ever happening again!

Last year I took two Schluter classes and learned about waterproofing, uncoupling membranes, and tips and tricks to keep your tile job looking flawless for a lifetime. What I learned over the four days blew my mind. I learned why and how shower systems fail. But, most importantly, I learned how to properly prepare surfaces for tile using waterproofing membranes. Today we’ll just be talking about waterproofing a floor, but I’ll have another tutorial for you soon so you can learn how to waterproof walls too.


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Why should you waterproof a floor?

Before we get started, I want you to fully understand how waterproofing a room can actually save you money and save you from the headache of having a leak in your home.

If you have a kitchen or a bathroom, chances are you’re going to have a leak in your lifetime (or your home’s lifetime) if it hasn’t already happened. One of the best things you can do is to install waterproofing materials so water can never damage your floors or floor framing again. I believe so strongly in the Schluter products, that all the properties I’m working on (including my own) will have Ditra installed on the floor before tiling.

By using the Schluter Ditra uncoupling and waterproof membrane in conjunction with Kerdi band around the perimeter of the room, I can waterproof the entire floor. Which means I don’t have to worry about rot or mold happening. Any little leaks will sit on top of this membrane until I see it because the water will rise instead of seeping into your floor or walls.

Ready to get started? Let me show you how to waterproof any room in your house!

For your convenience, I made a video to help show how to install Schluter waterproofing products and how to fully waterproof a room!


  1. Cut open your roll of Ditra and roll it out onto a scrap piece of wood or something you can cut on.
  2. Measure the room you want to waterproof and transfer the dimensions onto your Ditra membrane. Use a straight edge and a sharp utility knife to cut the Ditra. You might need to make a few passes with the knife to cut completely through the Ditra membrane.
  3. Test fit the Ditra in your room. Cut out a hole for your floor vents by pressing your knife through the membrane where the vent is and remove the material up to the edges of the duct. Cut the rest of the pieces to fill the room. Do not overlap the Ditra material.
  4. Now it’s time to mix the thinset. When using Schluter Ditra it’s highly recommended to use the Schluter All Set. This mortar is specifically manufactured to cure against the waterproof membrane. Read the instructions on the packaging and mix your thinset as directed.
  5. Use a wet sponge and clean water to clean and wet the subfloor. Spread the thinset onto the floor using the Schluter Ditra trowel. Make sure you have good coverage on the floor.
    Then use the notched trowel to comb through the thinset at a 45° angle.
  6. Lay the Ditra membrane on top of the thinset and use a smooth float to press the membrane into the thinset. In the beginning, you should roll back a corner of the Ditra to make sure you have full coverage onto the backing of the membrane. Place the Ditra back down and use the float again to make sure the membrane is pressed into the thinset.
  7. Use a wet sponge to clean out any mortar that has squeezed out the seams or edges.
  8. Once all the Ditra has been installed into the subfloor, you’re ready to seal the perimeter and seams. Grab a Kerdi corner piece for each corner of the room. Using the Kerdi trowel, apply thinset mortar to the inside corner of the room. Use the notched side to comb through the thinset. Place the Kerdi corner into the thinset and use the flat side of the trowel to embed and scrape along the Kerdi.
  9. Now you’re ready to install the Kerdi Band on the straight sections of wall. Be sure to cut your Kerdi band so it overlaps the corner pieces by at least 2 inches. I like to pre-fold my Kerdi Band by creasing it in the middle so it’s easier to install in the corners. Apply the Kerdi Band to the wall and floor using the same technique as the corner.
  10. Clean up any excess mortar leaving a smooth surface for tile installation.
  11. Now it’s time to complete the waterproofing of the room by sealing the seams between the Ditra sheets. Cut your Kerdi Band so it overlaps any perimeter band by at least two inches. Apply the thinset over the seam, use the notched trowel to create ridges in the thinset.
    Then embed the Kerdi band into the mortar and run the flat side of the trowel over the band to smooth the thinset and embed the band.
  12. Clean up any excess and allow the thinset to cure before tiling.

Once the thinset has cured you can tile your room and rest easy knowing this room is waterproofed and there’s no way the subfloor will rot from a sneaky little leak. Or a big leak if you have kids that like to splash out of the bathtub. I know this risk all too well from my own boys.

I hope you found this tutorial helpful and you’ll consider using Schluter waterproofing materials before you renovate your next “water” room.

Disclosure: I was provided with some Schluter materials for this project. I was not told what to write. All opinions are my own. I am particular about the brands I represent and will always let you know when you are reading a post with complementary products or a sponsored post.

After demolition, I realized several water leaks left some low spots in the kitchen floor at Millie’s Remodel.  Today I’m going show you how to use self-leveler to fix a sagging floor.  I’ll also show you a few tools you’ll find helpful when pouring self leveler.

Tips & Tricks to Self-Level a Floor at Millie’s Remodel

Can I level with you? LOL. Seriously, when I bought the Millie’s remodel house I knew there were some plumbing leaks. But, I had no idea how much damage the water had done to the floor in the kitchen. I discovered a pretty decent hump in the middle of the room with low spots on either side. To combat the hump my assistant, Stephanie, and I secured cedar shakes to the floor in one of the low spots. Then we laid 1/2″ OSB plywood on top. This helped a little bit with the bow, but we still had some issues.

One corner of the room was 3/4 of an inch lower than the other corner. Plus you could still detect the hump. I decided the best way to deal with the dips, hump, and creating a flat surface to tile onto was to pour a self-leveling concrete in the kitchen.

Prepping the Room for Self-Leveling Concrete Pour

Before pouring self-leveler, you should understand the properties of this mix. When you first mix the product, it’s very liquid and will flow to the lowest spot in your floor. It’s important to seal any cracks or gaps in the floor or your mix will seep through the cracks. You also need to cover any vents or you’ll watch all the mix pour into your ducts (no bueno!)

I like to use rigid foam insulation to prep the perimeter of the room. This creates a form and keeps the liquid from flowing outside the room. I use a sharp utility knife to cut strips from a big 4×8 sheet of rigid foam insulation. I found it easiest to use my trim nailer to nail the pieces to the perimeter of the room. Then I sealed the joint where the insulation and subfloor meet with a line of caulk. If you’ve never mastered spreading caulk quickly and cleanly, you’ll want to see my tutorial for using a caulk gun.

Now that the prep work is done, you’ll need to gather a few tools for this project.

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

materials for self-leveling concrete project


Optional: Work boots you can clean off easily

Priming the Floor:

Self-Leveling floor primer

Before pouring the self-leveling concrete, read the directions on the bag. Most leveling mixes specify you apply one coat of primer to a clean floor and let it dry before pouring the self leveler.

Tips for Spreading Self-Leveler:

Watch this video to see how we quickly and efficiently spread the self-leveling concrete mix:

Can you believe how helpful a simple garden rake is for spreading self-leveler? Me either!

After pouring your self-leveler, use a long level to check to see if you need to pour in more areas. Finally, use the concrete float to smooth and feather the edges of the self-leveling material into the floor.

Stay off your concrete pour until it has hardened. Make sure you clean any self-leveler off your tools, boots, or areas you don’t want it to harden onto.

After the self-leveling concrete has hardened, you are ready to tile or install your flooring!

I hope you found this tutorial helpful! Are you subscribed to my YouTube channel? If not, you’re missing out.

P.s. You might also find this tutorial helpful if you have a concrete floor that is damaged or chipping. Follow this tutorial for patching a damaged concrete floor.


A special thank you to the Millie’s Remodel Sponsors:

The Millie’s Remodel project sponsors have donated materials for the Millie’s Remodel project. As you know I am very particular about the brands I work with and recommend. As a general contractor, I choose the products used on my projects wisely to make sure they last a lifetime. Therefore, I have no reservations putting my name behind each and every one of these sponsors.

millies remodel sponsors logos

How to Build Decorative Gable Attic Vents

When I purchased the Saving Etta house (a Triple-A construction house built in 1900), I fell in love with the decorative gable attic vent shape at first sight. The little diamonds decorating each gable had my heart skipping a beat, even if she really needed a full gut job and renovation. When we stripped off the old faded aluminum siding and started to assess the condition of the gable vents, it became clear they were in really rough shape. And these cute custom shaped decorative gable attic vents weren’t available anywhere. Of course, you know that won’t stop me from getting what I want, so I taught myself How to Build Decorative Gable Attic Vents.

1900 triple A frame house

If you are a professional gable attic vent builder, this may not be the way you build gable vents, but I had to figure it out by myself because I couldn’t find any tutorials for building custom shape gable attic louver vents.

Decorative Gable Attic Vents Inspiration

Before we get to the tutorial on how to build custom shaped attic vents, I want to show you some other decorative gable vents to give you some inspiration. It seems I’m drawn to decorative gable attic vents, because I have several photos from my travels of old houses with cute custom shaped gable vents. Take a look at these beauties!

This attic vent doesn’t have louvers, but has a decorative cut out instead. I’m not sure it provides much ventilation, but the vent sure is cute to look at.

Triple A Construction House from pre-1900. Alamance Village, NC

I saved the best for last. Feast your eyes on this beautiful early 1900 quatrefoil louvered vent. This was a Sears & Roebuck house that was unfortunately torn down a few years ago to make way for apartment buildings. Don’t get me started on all the history being torn down around Raleigh, NC. At least I have a photo to remind me of the beautiful architectural features.

Still want more custom shaped gable vent ideas? You can see more Decorative Attic Gable Vents in my Pinterest Board.

Now it’s time to learn How to Build Decorative Gable Attic Vents!  So, let’s get crackin’.


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)




If you have to make multiple gable louvered vents, you may want to start by making a template of your shape. And, you’ll want to measure the rough opening for your gable vent if you are trying to install into existing attic framing.

1. Build a rectangular box using the 1×4’s. Prime the frame (if wood) before installing the louvers.

2. Run the 1×6 lumber through the table saw to cut a 45 degree angle onto one side. (Cut the first louver to test the fit inside the rectangular frame.) Make sure the louver fits and does not protrude past the front or back of the frame. You may need to rip more off your 1×6 material to make the louvers fit inside the 1×4 frame.

3. Cut and set a second louver into the bottom of the gable vent frame.

Measure the space between the top and bottom louver and divide the distance into equal spaces for your middle louvers.

Mark the location for each louver onto the gable vent frame.  This will give you the number of remaining louvers to cut. (For reference, my louvers are approximately three inches apart.)

4. Tack the top louver in place using trim nails (2 ½”, 16 gauge nails.)

5. Use the speed square to hold the second louver in place. Line the louver up with your pre-marked spots. Secure the second louver in place with three nails on each side.

Continue attaching the louvers into the gable vent frame.

When all the louvers have been installed, it should look similar to the photo below.

6. Caulk all the joints on the louvers and the frame. Let the caulk cure. Prime and paint the gable attic vent (especially while you have access to the back).

7. Flip the gable vent frame over and cut a piece of wire mesh hard cloth to fit onto the back of the vent frame.

Secure the mesh with heavy duty staples.

Now your gable attic vents are ready for their decorative shape!

8. You can use any shape you like as long as it fits over the rectangular attic vent. The shape is simply created by attaching a frame to the front of the gable attic vent. I chose the diamond shape since the original house had diamonds. Using the original house vents as my template, I cut Miratec trim into the same diamond shape.

Connect the frame using wood glue and nails. Then secure the decorative frame shape to the gable vent with trim nails.

Installing Gable Attic Vents:

Secure the gable vent inside the house framing using trim nails or screws. The shape frame will sit on top of the house sheathing. Be sure to install house wrap or flashing behind the shape frame, but not over the vent.

A drip cap is installed on top of the shape frame to prevent water from seeping inside. Then the siding is installed.


Finally the painters should caulk around all the seams where the gable attic vent meets the siding.

Saving Etta: 1900 Home Saved from Demolition and restored into a beautiful Triple A construction modern farmhouse. With Flat Sawn Ballusters on porch

Not bad considering the original gable vents were 118 years old! I consider it a win being able to keep the original architectural feature and hopefully allow it to last another 100 years or more.

Did I mention I had to build five decorative diamond gable attic vents? The house had three gables on the front original section of the house…

saving etta front view seeded and straw

…and two on the addition side of the house.

two story side of house backyard transformed

Coming up, I’ll show you how I built the custom diamond shaped window to match the gable vents!

Let me know if you found this tutorial helpful in the comments. It only takes you a minute, but your comment helps keep me motivated.

I hope you are enjoying these tutorials from the Saving Etta house. If you are just visiting this website, you might want to read the entire Saving Etta series! It was a monumental undertaking (did I mention it was my first house rehab?)


Earlier this week when I showed you the master bedroom in the Saving Etta house, you probably noticed the sliding barn door. I am in love with that door and especially excited that I was able to salvage the old beadboard and repurpose it as cladding on the barn door. Now it’s time to show you How to Build a Reclaimed Wood Sliding Barn Door. Let’s get building!

Notes about Materials:

To build your custom barn door you’re going to need to purchase a 4×8 sheet of plywood. The plywood will offer strength and rigidity and will add some thickness to the barn door. You don’t need to buy the finish grade plywood, instead purchase the cheapest plywood you can find because it will be covered up. One side will get a sheet of masonite bead board, and the other will be clad with the reclaimed lumber. And the sides will get trimmed out to hide the layers. So, as long as your plywood isn’t warped, it won’t matter how it looks. For my door I used 3/4″ plywood, but it was heavy. You may want to use 1/2″ plywood instead, but be sure to check the thickness requirements for your barn door track and hardware. This will ultimately dictate your width and weight!

Stripping Paint and Lead Paint Warning:

When you are using reclaimed wood, always test any paint with an instant lead check swab. Or treat it like it is lead paint. Because of the age of the bead board, I’m pretty sure my wood had lead paint. Before stripping lead paint, you definitely need to wear a dust mask or respirator and gloves. Eye protection is a good idea. And since my HEPA vacuum is loud, I wear hearing protection too.

Put down a plastic sheet under your work area and onto the floor. Make sure the sheet extends enough in each direction to catch any wayward paint chips.

The one thing you never want to do with lead paint is create airborne particles. This means you never want to dry sand it or use power tools to remove the paint. In the video, I’ll show you how I prefer to remove lead paint. In the past, I have used a chemical stripper like CitriStrip (although, the CitriStrip has a lot fewer chemicals than other strippers, it still makes a gooey mess). Instead, I found this ProScraper tool on Amazon and thanks to the recommendation of my friend at The Craftsman’s Blog, this is my new go to tool for paint stripping.

To use the ProScraper, clamp your wood to the table top. Use the ProScraper tool attached to a HEPA vacuum hose. While the vacuum is on, use firm pressure and pull the ProScraper towards you. It will take several passes to remove all the paint. Especially if your wood is old like mine and has over 100 years of paint layers on it.

After you finish scraping, be sure to vacuum up any paint chips and dust around your work area. Use a disposable damp rag to clean off the wood and remove any remaining dust.

When you are finished, place the damp rag and any other disposables into the center of the plastic sheet. Carefully gather the plastic sheet in towards its center. Deposit the plastic sheet and trash in a sealed plastic trash bag. Clean your work area to remove any remaining paint dust.

Tools & Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

In case you are curious, these are the other tools in my workshop

Video Tutorial:

Feel free to watch the full tutorial for making this reclaimed wood barn door below in the video tutorial.

Don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube Channel for more DIY video tutorials and tips.

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel

Time to cut your materials. Measure and mark the size of your door on the plywood and masonite bead board sheet. (Be sure to add two inches to your door opening so the barn door will cover the opening.)

measure and mark on plywood for door size

mark size of door on masonite bead board

Cut your wood with a circular saw, or if you have one, use a track saw! I’ve found this battery-powered track saw by DeWalt to be invaluable for cutting down large sheets. Because it runs on batteries I can even bring it with me to the store and cut the materials in the parking lot if necessary!

using DeWalt battery-powered track saw to cut plywood

The hanging hardware for my barn door has a small bar that mounts on the floor. I needed to cut a groove into the bottom of my door to accept the bar and keep it from swinging back and forth when opening or closing.

use Dremel Saw Max to cut groove in bottom of barn door

Add a fair amount of construction adhesive to one side of your plywood door. Then lay the masonite bead board sheet onto the plywood and press firmly into the glue. Drive a few brad nails into the masonite to keep it in place as the glue cures.

lay bead board on top of plywood

Flip your door over and start laying out the border design. Did you know these are the back sides of the bead board? So pretty!

dry fit border on barn door

Apply construction adhesive under the border pieces and set them in place. Then add some brad nails to hold it until the glue cures.

nail border pieces in place on reclaimed wood barn door

I decided to sand the border pieces to remove any rough edges and splinters, but made sure not to sand too much or I’d lose the dark weathered look.

To cut the interior bead board pieces, cut one end of the boards at a 45˚ angle. Then set them into the border frame. Using a ruler and pencil, mark where to cut the other side.

cutting bead board to fit in border on door

Test the fit of your bead board. Continue marking and cutting all the bead board pieces. Make sure they all fit before moving on.

almost all bead board pieces dry fit in reclaimed wood door border

Secure all the interior pieces with construction adhesive and brad nails. You might find your last piece isn’t as wide as your boards, cut this piece on a band saw or jig saw if necessary and fit in place.

To hide the plywood, rip pieces of bead board or use flat trim to finish the edges of your door.

nailing trim on door sides

Use a polycrylic or water-based top coat to seal the door (and prevent exposure to any lead paint left on the door). I prefer the General Finishes High Performance Flat top coat. What I like about it is it has no sheen. The top coat protects the wood while letting the beauty of the grain show, and there’s no shine to detract from the wood.

And now onto the reveal!

I purchased the Barn Door Hardware and Barn Door Handle from Amazon and was very happy with the quality.

What do you think? Do you like how I reused the bead board? I hope the door lives for decades in the Saving Etta home.