Saving Etta: Paint Colors + Home Tour Guide

Now that all the rooms have been revealed in the Saving Etta house, I thought you’d like one post to refer to all the paint colors used inside and outside the home. This will also be a great starting place to navigate all the Saving Etta room reveals.

Before we begin, a little note to let you know that Magnolia Home Paint was a sponsor of the Saving Etta project. I was thrilled to be able to showcase some of their many beautiful paint colors. Unless specifically noted, all colors are from the Magnolia Home Paint collection.

We actually had the honor of trying out the Magnolia Home Exterior Paint line before it hit the market. I can honestly say my painters loved the paint quality and the painter at the property next door came over to ask about it (he explained he was admiring the great coverage and how beautiful the finish was.) The interior paint had already won me over with its low VOCs and creamy thick texture. The paint goes on great and levels out as it dries. I’m looking forward to using their paint on many future projects!

If you want to get your hands on the paint, Magnolia Home Paint is available online and at a variety of paint retailers you can search for here.

Saving Etta Home Tour + Paint Colors:

I hope you enjoy the Saving Etta room tours. If you have any questions, please leave them below in the comments.

When you pull up to the front of the Saving Etta house, you’re greeted by a cheery front porch and a beautiful green door. I had agonized over the door color in this blog post. But, ultimately decided on this color palette for the home’s exterior.

Tour Links:

Front Yard Transformation Tour

The Amazing Backyard Transformation

Tour Link:

Upstairs Rooms + an Alternative to Railings

Tour Link:

Upstairs Vintage Inspired Bathroom Tour

Tour Link:

Downstairs Bedrooms + How I Saved the Original Doors

Tour Link:

Downstairs Shared Bathroom

Tour Link:

Master Bedroom + My Bold Paint Choice

Tour Link:

Master Bathroom Reveal

Tour Link:

Mudroom Reveal + Saving the 1900 Chimney

Tour Links:

Kitchen Reveal

Living Room Reveal

Tour Link:

Laundry Room + No Hands Light Switch

I hope you found this paint colors reference helpful when picking out paint colors for your home. Did you enjoy the Saving Etta Home Tour? Please tell me which is your favorite room.

Disclosure: Magnolia Home Paint by KILZ is a Saving Etta material sponsor. I’m honored to work with them on this project. All words and opinions are my own. I have not been told what to say. As always I am very particular about the sponsors I work with and you will be told if you are reading a post that has been sponsored or in which materials were provided. 

Saving Etta: Upstairs Room Reveals

Saving Etta: Upstairs Room Reveals

We’ve come to the end of the Saving Etta room reveals. It’s been fun, but it’s time to move on to a new project. If you were here for the last Saving Etta reveal, you saw my announcement that I’ve purchased another house to renovate. The Millie’s Remodel project is starting soon and I can’t wait to share the transformations with you. But for now, let’s head up those stairs to see the Saving Etta: Upstairs Room Reveals.

Saving Etta: Upstairs Room Reveals

The original Saving Etta house didn’t have an upstairs, but after climbing onto the roof one day, I couldn’t resist the view and was determined to add a small second-floor room. I had climbed onto the roof to investigate for roof leaks. What I found was a host of issues: from a flat roof with no pitch to nail heads exposed. It was no wonder the ceilings inside were pocked with black mold and some spots had so much damage, the sheetrock had collapsed in places.

Saving Etta - The Story of Saving a House Built in 1900 | Pretty Handy Girl

If I had to completely rebuild the roof, I wanted to find a way to add a small loft or second-floor room to look out onto the beautiful backyard.

Saving Etta - The Story of Saving a House Built in 1900 | Pretty Handy Girl

Which is basically how the idea of adding a second floor came to happen (but in a more round about fashion). After mentioning to my architect that I wanted to build one roof over the back and add a small loft, she got silent. Then she measured her words and said, “I know you’ll need time to process this, but you need to tear off all this mess in the back and rebuild. It only took me 30 seconds to agree with her because I lost so much sleep trying to figure out how to fix the roof leaks, and dig a crawlspace where the floor joists rested on the earth.

Back of the House Plans

Luckily my architect came up with the brilliant two-story plans for the back of the house, and I couldn’t be happier with the results.

Look at all those glass windows and doors taking in the view of the yard. And, lest you think it looks like a giant addition, from the front sidewalk you’d never know there was a second floor addition. We both agreed it was important not to take away from the original look of the 1900 portion of the house.

Saving Etta: 1900 Home Saved from Demolition and restored into a beautiful Triple A construction modern farmhouse.

Before I get ahead of myself, I’d like to thank all the Saving Etta sponsors. They are all near and dear to my heart for their support and patience. When it comes to selecting products, tools, and clothing, these are the brands I select time and time again.

Progression of the Upstairs Rooms:

Once the framing was done, I knew the upstairs was going to be a nice little retreat for the new owners. With a private bathroom, bedroom, and an open room, this space could potentially be rented out, become an office, or a kids’ wing.

Upstairs Landing Framed

The Upstairs Reveal:

Upstairs consists of a bathroom, an open room at the top of the stairs, the attic access door (shown in the picture below), and a bedroom.

At the top of the stairs, I debated for a while about what style railing to put outside the attic access door. I couldn’t find anything I really liked.

One night I had a stroke of genius. Why do we have to put a railing there? Let’s put some more storage. That’s how I decided to have my trim carpenter build a little bookcase there. I’m very happy with the decision.

The Elegance Series Impressions Flooring continues upstairs. I love the aged look of this floor!

Above the stairs was one of the cheapest light fixtures I could find. No for real, I found it on the side of the road! My neighbor was throwing away the chandelier. It used to be satin nickel, but I gave it a face lift with some oil rubbed bronze spray paint and removed the cylinder light shades to give it an industrial vibe.

The LED Edison bulbs give a vintage vibe but also provide long lasting light bulbs without the need to change them.

The Upstairs Bedroom

The upstairs bedroom is through the open room. It’s a quiet private retreat with an amazing view!

I spent lots of time looking out these Plygem Mira windows admiring the view. This was the perspective I saw from atop the leaking roof. It’s amazing to see your vision come to life.

In the bedroom, we added two small closets. The closet doors were painted Cupola by Magnolia Home paint and the door handles are Hobson Glass Knobs from Schlage.

The architect suggested a bench seat between the closets. From past experience, benches just become a dumping ground, so I opted for a built-in desk.

I could definitely sit here and work for hours. Especially because I can simultaneously charge two USB devices and use both outlets because of the Leviton USB Charging outlet under the desk. To the left of the outlet is a cable and ethernet jack. After seeing how sloppy post-construction cable, internet, and phone wire installation is, I had the house pre-wired during the rough in phase. This virtually eliminates holes and voids where bugs, rodents, and cold air can get it.

This concludes the Saving Etta reveal tour with the Saving Etta: Upstairs Room Reveals. If you’re finding yourself a little sad the journey is over, have no fear a new remodel journey is starting shortly. Be on the lookout for the grand announcement and be sure to follow me on Instagram and Facebook to see up-to-date glimpses into Millie’s Remodel!

I’d love to hear what you thought of the Saving Etta project. Did you enjoy the updates? Were there too many, too few? Would you like to see more video or more photos? Would you like more DIY tutorials? More informational articles?

I’m all ears, let me know in the comments so I can try to accommodate your desires during the next project.

Saving Etta: Living Room Reveal

I know it’s been a while since you received a Saving Etta update. And, there’s a good reason for the delay. Not only did I renovate two bathrooms for our local Habitat for Humanity this past week, but I also bought a house! After six months of touring houses and putting in offers, I finally had one accepted on a house. I’ll be giving you more details soon, but in the meantime, I want to invite you inside for the living room reveal in the Saving Etta house.

This room was one of my favorite rooms in the house because of how bright, open, and lofty the space is with huge 14 foot ceilings. The focal point of the room may not be something inside the living room itself. Instead the real star is the view to the backyard through the big Plygem Mira windows and sliding door.

During my breaks, I loved looking out at the serene yard with many birds hopping and flying around. The backyard is truly a gem in the middle of downtown Raleigh.

Before I get ahead of myself, I’d like to thank all the Saving Etta sponsors. They are all near and dear to my heart for their support and patience. When it comes to selecting products, tools, and clothing, these are the brands I select time and time again.

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Progression of the Living Room:

The moment the living room was framed, I could tell it was going to be glorious. The huge ceilings and the diamond cut out for the window were enough to make me awestruck. It was also the moment I knew my architect had created something grand.

Before the electrical and lighting could be installed, my electrician pointed out one problem spot. He said there wasn’t a level spot for the ceiling fan. My framers had long left the job site, so I had to install a piece of blocking myself. It took a few trial efforts to figure out the proper angle to cut the blocking so it could fit level in the peak of the rafters.

Once the blocking issue was resolved, the drywall was installed. If anyone questions the insulation value of sheet rock, I can tell you it made a huge difference in maintaining the temperature in the house after install. (It also cut down on much of the outside noise.)

drywall installed in living room

Speaking of noise, if you had a sharp eye, you may have noticed the purple drywall on the left hand wall. It’s SoundBreak drywall used to reduce sound transmission between to rooms. You can read more about how I “sound-proofed” the rooms here (actually it’s more sound reduction than sound-proof.)

The fireplace surround was wrapped with PermaBase cement board in preparation for tile or stucco around the fireplace. (At this point I still had no idea how I was going to finish the surround.)

After the flooring was installed, the construction site started to feel more like a home. I still drool over how beautiful the Elegance Series wood floors from Impressions Flooring Collection looked in the house. I chose the flint color stain, but recently saw a house with wheat colored Elegance series floors, and they were equally as stunning (but definitely lighter in color.)

My friend Holly, Pretty Handsome Guy, and I worked together to assemble and install the cabinets in the kitchen as my trim carpenter worked on building shelves for either side of the hearth.

Ultimately, I deviated from the idea to tile or stucco the fireplace and asked my trim carpenter to install wood planks (faux shiplap) like I had in my own kitchen. (You can read the tutorial for creating and installing your own faux shiplap planks here.)

The fireplace is a ventless gas fireplace. I selected a sexy gas fire with decorative rocks for the living room. It has one linear flame and cranks out an amazing amount of heat! The few times we turned it on, the heat warmed the room very quickly. If the homeowners ever lose power they will be very comfortable using the gas fireplace for heat.

The Living Room Reveal:

At long last, I’m super proud of this room and hope you love it as much as I do.

The fireplace mantel is one of two original mantels from the house. Because they both had lead paint, I had them stripped down to raw wood. The old wood and age made them too attractive to paint again.

To protect the wood, I simply added wood filler to the nail holes and finished the mantels with a flat top coat from General Finishes. The top coat protects the wood but doesn’t have a shine to distract you from the mantel’s aged appearance.

The diamond shaped window over the fireplace is one of those details I’m glad we decided to include. I wasn’t about to order a custom window for that spot, so I learned how to make my own window. It’s a single pane glass, but the size and location means there’s not a huge energy loss.

The diamond window has the same shape as the attic vents on the exterior of the house. I’m so glad my architect added it to the plans. Little touches like this really show the attention to detail for the overall design.

saving etta front view seeded and straw

Remember the blocking I had to nail into the top of the living room ceiling? This is what it’s for:

The Fanimation Spitfire ceiling fan. Instead of black, I ordered a brushed nickel fan to keep it light and airy feeling. This fan is definitely one of my favorite modern fans.

A special thanks to Minted Spaces for the phenomenal staging they did in the house.

The furniture truly set the stage for the open house event and I’m happy to say we had multiple offers that same weekend. Hooray.

After the furniture was removed, the house felt empty. I knew it was time for Etta to be turned over to the new owners so they could fill the space with their furniture and create their own memories.

Many people have asked me if it was emotionally hard to sell Etta. It wasn’t because I love our own home and stayed focused on choosing things for the young couple I always pictured as the buyers.

The last day I owned the house, I ran around finishing the few punch list fixes. After everything was complete, I sat on the floor and tried to reflect on the last 18 months building and saving this historic house. It was crazy to think where this journey started and how much the experience deviated from my idea of what rehabbing a historic house would be like.

1900 triple A frame house

Although it was a huge undertaking and an experience along the way, I am proud to say, “I did it! I saved Etta!” The little bungalow I bought with a major roof leak and black mold had been turned into an amazingly beautiful home.

Saving Etta: 1900 Home Saved from Demolition and restored into a beautiful Triple A construction modern farmhouse.

Looking back I never would have bought the house if I had known how much was involved in rehabbing her. But, I’m glad I didn’t realize it, because this house pushed me and taught me many lessons. Plus, it would have been bulldozed like many of the other houses in disrepair in this neighborhood.

Thank you all for your words of encouragement and for cheering me on when I felt like I couldn’t press on. You are the best set of friends (some I’ve met and some I haven’t met yet) a handy girl could ask for.

I’ll be back with the last reveal (the upstairs bedroom and den), and then it’s on to the next house remodel. Stay tuned to learn more.

Saving Etta Upstairs Bathroom RevealSaving Etta: Upstairs Bathroom Reveal

Today I’m revealing the last bathroom in the Saving Etta house. This bathroom is a departure from the more modern master bathroom and the shared downstairs bathroom. In the upstairs bathroom, I pushed the vintage look and added some feminine touches to create a bathroom I wish I could use every day!

Before I take you into the bathroom, I want to thank all the Saving Etta sponsors. As you all know, I’m very particular about the brands I work with and I can honestly say my sponsors are the cream of the crop when it comes to selling products for your home and lifestyle.

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Progression of the Upstairs Bathroom:

The upstairs bathroom is off the second floor loft area right above the master bathroom.  All the bathrooms in the house are approximately the same size.

Upstairs Landing Framed

Shortly after the roof was finished, we started installing the water lines, tubs, and waste lines in the bathrooms.

Upstairs Bathroom Framing and tub in

Once the plumbing and electrical rough-in inspections passed, the water and mold-resistant purple drywall was installed on the walls.

Upstairs Bathroom Purple Drywall Installed

Then the PermaBase cement board was installed in the tub and shower area and it was time for tile!

Upstairs Bathroom Permabase Installed

After the tile floors were installed, we began putting in the fixtures. The vanity and vanity lights were set in place.

Installing vanity in upstairs bathroom

About the Combination Light and Exhaust Fan:

You may have seen me mention the Broan integrated light and exhaust fan in the downstairs shared bathroom reveal post. I thought you might like a few more details about this unique exhaust fan that hides in plain sight.

When completely installed, it looks like a regular recessed light.

If you look at the rough installed recessed light exhaust fan, you can see the housing is actually square like a standard exhaust fan.

Broan Exhaust Fan Light Housing

A baffle clips inside the fan housing to hide the metal box.

Because the recessed light fan can be installed inside a shower, it requires a special light bulb made for damp locations. (The light bulb is included with the fan/light kit.)

Broan Exhaust Fan light

The bulb simply twists into the socket.

Adding Light bulb to Broan Exhaust Fan/Light Fixture

And the result is a light and exhaust fan in one. No need to cut extra holes in your ceiling!

Ready for the rest of the tour in the upstairs bathroom?

The upstairs bathroom is located at the top of the stairs one room away from the upstairs bedroom. The entire upstairs consists of the bedroom, an open room at the top of the stairs, and the bathroom. It makes the upstairs area feel like a separate apartment.

Inside the bathroom, the undeniable star is the floor. The tile I used was Jeffrey Court Floral Terrace (can be purchased at Home Depot). My tile setter was so relieved when he saw the floral pattern is already embedded into each sheet.

He told me about a job where the client made him pick out little white hex tiles and insert black ones for the flowers. I can’t even imagine how much extra time it would take to complete the patterned floor. Then again, based on the time Young House Love put into this beach house bathroom floor, I can image it.

My second favorite element in this bathroom is the weathered bathroom vanity.

It’s the Fairmont Design Rustic Chic 36″ vanity in Weathered Oak. Lucky for me, I was able to purchase the display model at Ferguson Kitchen & Bath for a great price. The marble top had some minor scratches, but my countertop fabricator was able to buff out the scratches.

I love the weathered oak look and am hoping to recreate it for some projects in my own house. I’m thinking about making some test boards to try white wax, white-washing, and maybe even something crazy like joint compound! But, I’ll report back on this experiment at a later date.

In my quest to save some money, I scoured local yard sales and thrift shops for an elegant mirror.

Luckily, I stumbled upon this gold framed mirror at a local thrift store. I think I paid $13 for it. The gold paint was chipping, but I didn’t let it deter me.

All it needed was a little sanding and brushing gold enamel paint over the high parts of the frame.

Thrift Store Gold Painted Mirror Frame

I love the vintage and elegant style it adds to this bathroom.

Speaking of vintage, the light fixtures on either side of the mirror add more vintage charm and additional lighting.

Now let’s talk about that pretty toilet. (Yes, I know toilets aren’t usually something you want to stare at.) But, this Heritage Vormax toilet provided by my friends at Wilkinson Plumbing Supply will certainly impress you.

The American Standard Heritage VorMax toilet has been designed to stay clean longer and reduces the dreaded under rim build up. Watch this video for more details:

Pretty cool, huh?! If you live in the Raleigh/Durham area of North Carolina, check out the Wilkinson Supply showroom and ask them about the American Standard Heritage VorMax toilet (and don’t forget to tell them I sent you.)

The bathroom door sports the beautiful Schlage Hobson Knob that completes the vintage look.

For the tub surround, I chose larger subway tiles. The Jeffrey Court 4″ x 12″ subway tiles are a classic choice that will keep this bathroom stylish for decades. I love the look of the larger tiles, plus it helped speed the installation.

I hope you enjoyed the tour of the upstairs bathroom.

We’re nearing the end of the Saving Etta room reveals. Do you have a favorite room yet?

Here are the previous Saving Etta Room Reveals:

Kitchen RevealMudroomDownstairs Front BedroomsMaster BedroomMaster BathroomLaundry RoomDownstairs Shared BathroomBackyard TransformationFront Yard Transformation


Source List:

Jeffrey Court Fresh White 4″ x 12″ Subway Tiles

Jeffrey Court Floral Terrace Mosaic Tiles

Fairmont Design Rustic Chic 36″ vanity in Weathered Oak

American Standard Heritage VorMax Toilet

Plygem Mira Window

Schlage Hobson Door Knobs

Shower Head & Tub Spout Set

Sink Faucet

Shower Curtain Rod

Gray Damask Shower Curtain

Shower Curtain Rolling Rings

Recessed Light Exhaust Fan by Broan

Wall Color: Emmie’s Room by Magnolia Home Paint

Door Color: Cupola by Magnolia Home Paint


See you soon with more Saving Etta updates and I’ll have a few home improvement tutorials as well.

Disclosure: I received materials and/or compensation from the sponsors of the Saving Etta project. These were the upstairs bathroom sponsors: Ask for Purple, Plygem, Broan-Nutone, Schlage, Wilkinson Supply Co., Magnolia Home Paint, KILZ, Jeffrey Court Tile. I was not told what to write. All opinions and words are my own. As always, I will notify you if you are reading as sponsored post or if I was compensated. Rest assured I am very particular about the brands I work with. Only brands I use in my own home or that I’ve had a positive experience with will be showcased on this blog.

Saving Etta: Downstairs Bathroom RevealSaving Etta: Downstairs Shared Bathroom Reveal

The downstairs shared bathroom in the Saving Etta house was designed to function as an en suite bathroom to one of the bedrooms, but also to have a second door opening to the main hallway for guests or for anyone to use. I can’t take credit for the architectural plans in the Saving Etta house, but I can take credit for the fun design choices I made when putting in the finishing touches on the house. (All product sources are listed at the end of this post.) The downstairs bathroom was one small room where I had lots of fun with the floor tile.

Stripes! From the beginning I knew I wanted to use classic tiles in the bathrooms. And possibly tile a border in one bathroom. If you’ve seen Mandi’s daughter’s bathroom in The Merc you’ll appreciate why I wanted to add a border to the floor.

But, if you’ve ever tried to design a border using little hex tiles, you’ll quickly learn that you can achieve a straight line from left to right, but when you try to create a straight line 90 degrees from the first stripe, it looks like a squiggly line. Bummer. However, sometimes it takes road blocks in your path to help you find a more creative solution you like even better.

I used Jeffrey Court mosaic tiles (available at Home Depot) in white and black to create this unique look. And my tile setter did a phenomenal job with the installation.

Before I take you further into the bathroom, I want to thank all the Saving Etta sponsors. As you all know, I’m very particular about the brands I work with and I can honestly say my sponsors are the cream of the crop when it comes to selling products for your home and lifestyle.

Bathroom Before:

As you learned the other day, the original house only had one bathroom and it was definitely not anything pretty.

Saving Etta - The Story of Saving a House Built in 1900 | Pretty Handy Girl

After the back of the house was removed, we began to build back in the same footprint. As you can see in the photo below, the wall on the left was the original back wall of the 1900 portion of the Saving Etta house.

After framing, I had my drywall contractor install Purple drywall throughout the bathroom. If you don’t know why it’s important to use purple drywall in kitchens and bathrooms, you’ll want to read this post.

The transom window over the tub lets in a ton of natural light, but no peeping eyes! It’s obscure glass from Plygem’s Mira window line.

The Downstairs Shared Bathroom Reveal:

You’ve already seen the mosaic hex tile floor. Continuing with the black and white striped theme, I made sure to stage the bathroom with a striped shower curtain (could you ask for a more perfect match?) Of course, who can deny the beauty of the glass door knob. These Schlage Hobson knobs were used throughout the house and they are undeniably gorgeous and equally amazing to touch.

The vanity I chose for this bathroom was a wonderful surprise. The price was a steal compared to the master bathroom vanity. When it arrived, I expected a cheap quality vanity, but was relieved to find it had strong construction, adjustable hinges, and came complete with a quartz (marble look-a-like) countertop and integrated sink. In contrast, the vanity in the master bathroom didn’t come with a top or sink. You can read more about that vanity and my opinion of it here.

This vanity is heavy, so I was thrilled that the delivery from Wayfair included placing it in the room of your choice at delivery.

One lesson I learned from this bathroom was to double check measurements during framing. My plumber was the first to point out that the bathroom width was 6″ wider than the tub. After some creative brainstorming, I decided to take the easy route and add some framing on either side of the tub to make up the difference.

Obviously the tub surround turned out okay, but it wasn’t without challenges. Especially because I made the mistake of paying my drywallers to install the cement board. I learned after they left what a sloppy job they did. My tile installer had to perform some miracles to plumb and straighten the walls. I’ll definitely leave that task to the tile setter next time (and save money not paying for the same project twice.)

Time to talk dirty. Well, not exactly, but I want to share with you another inexpensive fixture that surprised me. The toilet!

It is a very modestly priced ProFlo toilet that really performs well. In fact, I’ll probably get the same toilet for our master bathroom. It doesn’t have any fancy features or look special, but frankly I just want it to work well under pressure (if you know what I mean.)

Speaking of things I will use in my own bathroom, I must install another Broan Exhaust Fan and Light. This low profile recessed light doubles as the exhaust fan! Talk about hard working.

Want to hear something funny? After my drywall installers finished the job, I discovered they had sealed the junction box for the vanity light into the wall. My electrician and I were able to find it and cut a hole. Then I realized I had forgotten to purchase the light fixture for this spot. Luckily he had enough work to keep him busy while I ran to purchase a light fixture for over the sink.

I’m so happy with how this bathroom turned out. It’s the perfect bathroom for the homeowners and their guests.

What are your favorite features? Would you change anything? Is there anything you learned while renovating your own bathroom? Please share!


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Black Hex Tiles by Jeffrey Court

White Hex Tiles by Jeffrey Court

Transom Window by Plygem

Burholme 49″ Black Vanity Set

Faucet by Moen

Toilet by ProFlo

Bronze Cage Vanity Lights

Schlage Hobson Door Knobs

Shower Head & Tub Spout Set

Shower Curtain Rod

Black Striped Shower Curtain

Shower Curtain Rolling Rings

Recessed Light Exhaust Fan by Broan


Wall Color: Emmie’s Room by Magnolia Home Paint

Door Color: Cupola by Magnolia Home Paint

Disclosure: I received materials and/or compensation from the sponsors of the Saving Etta project. These were the bathroom sponsors: Ask for Purple, Plygem, Broan-Nutone, Schlage, Magnolia Home Paint, KILZ, Jeffrey Court Tile. I was not told what to write. All opinions and words are my own. As always, I will notify you if you are reading as sponsored post or if I was compensated. Rest assured I am very particular about the brands I work with. Only brands I use in my own home or that I’ve had a positive experience with will be showcased on this blog.

How to Install Privacy Film on WindowsHow to Install Privacy Film on Windows

Do you have a window in your house that puts you on full display? Or maybe your neighbor’s house is very close to your’s and you feel like they can see in your window (especially a bathroom or bedroom window.) Sure you can add curtains or blinds, but then you won’t get the natural light you want from your windows. Today I have the solution to your privacy needs without blocking the light. Let me show you how easy it is to install privacy film to your windows with professional looking results.


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

About the Privacy Film:

Before we begin, I have to tell you when Stick Pretty approached me about using their product I was thrilled to find they have some very attractive options for privacy film! Those of us that shop at the big home improvement stores know the options for privacy film are fairly limited. Feast your eyes on just a few of the beautiful adhesive film patterns Stick Pretty has to offer:

And there is a semi-transparent option for blurred viewing (less opaque.)

That’s not all. You can also order any of the patterns in a sheer adhesive film to dress up your windows. All the adhesive window films are customizable with white, fog, mushroom, or black designs.

I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention Stick Pretty also sells tile decals (to brighten your tiles or cover up ugly tiles.)

And they offer decorative adhesive panels for use on walls, furniture, or anywhere your imagination can think of.

If you find yourself falling in love with any of the products on the Stick Pretty website, don’t forget to get 20% OFF your order if you use the code: “PrettyHandyGirl” at checkout.

Now, on to the tutorial for installing privacy film on  your windows.


Watch this quick video to see how easy it is to install privacy film to any window.

Step 1. Clean

Use glass cleaner and a lint free rag to clean the window really well. Make sure there’s nothing on the glass that will stick under the adhesive film (which would stick there forever until you take it off).

Step 2. Measure & Cut

Measure each pane of glass on your window. Add 1/8 of an inch, because it’s better to cut the film too big. We will cut off the excess at the end.

Transfer your measurements onto the privacy film. Use a sharp x-acto blade and a metal ruler to guide your cuts. Apply gentle pressure as you cut the film.

3. Installing the Privacy Film

Carefully peel up your privacy film and take it to the window immediately. If you wait, dust can settle onto your film.

The key to a really good adherence of the film to the window (with no bubbles or wrinkles) is to use a mixture of water and a few drops of dish soap in a spray bottle.

It also helps to use a good squeegee.

Spray a liberal amount of the water and soap mixture onto the glass. If you find the film sticking too much to the glass, spray more of the mixture onto the glass.

Line up the film at the top. Using your hands, push from the center, down and out to set the privacy film. If needed, lift the film and reposition.

Use the squeegee to push out any water and air bubbles. Again, working from the center out and top down.

Use a clean rag and run it along the edges to clean up any water that has squirted out.

Step 4. Trimming Excess

If your film is too large and overlaps off the glass, take a sharp x-acto knife and cut off the excess. Peel off the trimmed excess.

Then squeegee the film again and clean it up any water from the edges.

You can see the difference between the regular window glass and the glass with privacy film on it below.

Half installed window privacy film see the difference

After installing your privacy film, you may see some ghosting between the film and the window. As long as you have pushed all the air bubbles out of the film, the ghosting should go away after a few days. (Can you spot the ghost spots in the picture below? Within 48 hours they had disappeared.)

Hopefully this tutorial will help someone reclaim some privacy in their home without giving up natural light! Pin this image to share with a friend:

How to Install Privacy Film on Windows

Friends, I have a question for you:

I decided to let the video tutorial guide you through the process on this tutorial instead of the usual step-by-step photos. Let me know what you think and if you miss the photos when there is a video tutorial. Thanks for your feedback.

Disclosure: Stick Pretty sent me the privacy film at no cost to try out on the Saving Etta project. I was not told what to say. All opinions are my own. If you use the coupon code: “PrettyHandyGirl” on the website, you will receive a discount and I will receive a small percentage of the sale. As always, I am very particular about the brands I represent on this website and will always let you know if you are reading a sponsored post or if I received free materials.

If you liked this tutorial and want to add a layer of security to your glass doors or windows, you’ll appreciate my tutorial for adding security film to your home.

How to Add Security Film to Glass Doors & Windows | Pretty Handy Girl

Saving Etta: Master Bathroom Reveal

This is a master bathroom reveal I’ve been dying to share with you. The master bathroom in the Saving Etta house acted as a room I could experiment in and test some ideas for my own personal bathroom (that is currently stuck in 1978). I used a lot of elements I had pinned for my own bathroom ideas. Many of them looked amazing, but a few of the elements I learned are not as amazing as I thought they were. Regardless, I am thrilled with how the master bathroom turned out.

But, before we move to the reveal, I need to give a big thank you to the Saving Etta sponsors. As you all know, I’m very particular about the brands I work with and I can honestly say my sponsors are the cream of the crop when it comes to selling products for your home and lifestyle.

The Bathroom Before:

When I bought the Saving Etta house, there was only one bathroom. And it was one sad excuse for a bathroom. The size was decent, but the condition was abysmal. The leaking roof had done a number on the ceiling and walls.

Saving Etta - The Story of Saving a House Built in 1900 | Pretty Handy Girl

There was so much mold in this one room, that I closed the door and sealed it up with plastic while I began demo in the other rooms.

In fact, I much preferred the port-a-potty to the indoor bathroom (which should explain how awful Etta’s original bathroom was.)

While demo progressed, I put together a mood board for the new Master Bathroom. You can see more inspiration photos and sources in the Master Bathroom design plans.

Demolition and New Framing:

This is the last time I laid eyes on that poor sad original bathroom. I never touched anything in that room. There wasn’t anything worth salvaging. Even the tub was in rough shape.

As soon as the back of the house was removed, work began on building the new addition in its place. But, once framing started, things really began to take shape. My plumber installed the shower pan for me.

The drywallers installed the Purple drywall in the bathroom (this drywall should never mold!)

There was some debate between my subcontractors about water-proofing the shower in the master bathroom. I finally added some thick plastic and caulked the seams around the shower niche to prevent any future issues with moisture.

Then PermaBase cement board was installed over the plastic by my drywallers.

This is one thing I learned from this experience. Next time I will let the tile setters install the backer board for the tile. Apparently my drywall installers did a very sloppy job and I ended up paying my tile setters to fix their mistakes.

For my own personal bathroom, I’m planning on trying some of the Schluter materials instead of the cement board. In fact I’ll be taking a two day class in a few weeks to learn proper installation techniques.

Beautiful marble outlined black white hex tiles in master bathroom

Once the tile floor went in, and the walls were painted Wedding Band gray from Magnolia Home paint, we were able to move the vanity and the toilet into the bathroom so the wood flooring could be installed in the rest of the house.

The Master Bathroom Reveal:

Ready to see the final reveal of the master bathroom? I can’t wait for you to see this! The style I steered toward in this small 5′ x 8′ bathroom is modern farmhouse.

I kept the elements clean, but also timeless. The rainfall shower head (with exterior mounted plumbing) appealed to my sense of a classic look.

The exhaust fan looks underwhelming, but let me tell you, it ROCKS! Really!

Inside the fan is a bluetooth speaker from Nutone. All you have to do is pair up your bluetooth device with the fan and you can rock out to tunes in the shower. My only complaint is the speaker won’t work when the fan switch is turned off. But, luckily the fan is ultra quiet.

Okay,  I know, the shower niche tile is a real show stopper. It’s from Best Tile, but I’ll have to find out what it’s called.

Even though I added a shower niche, I insisted on putting in a soap tray in the corner.

Now for the other tile choices that will knock your socks off. The floor has a beautiful marble hex tile from The Builder Depot.

This tile is most likely coming into my house! Although, I may look at the honed version of the same flooring.

The black and white tile theme continues into the shower floor. I couldn’t resist these 2″ black marble hex tiles for the shower floor.

I’m sure you spotted the drain cover. How could you miss this fun fixture in the shower?

This is a custom brass drain cover from Designer Drains.

Ignore the silver screws, later I swapped them out for the correct brass ones.

Let’s talk about the vanity. I love the look. The vanity has one operational drawer with a plumbing cut out to avoid the p-trap.

The drawer is perfect for storing things out of site. The bottom shelf allows the homeowners to add baskets and towels for more storage.

But, here’s what I don’t like about the vanity. To be completely honest, it was super lightweight (think balsa wood) and cost way too much for the materials to be so lightweight. I was really angry I paid so much for it, especially because I could have made it myself a lot better quality. Once the quartz countertop was installed, it weighs down the vanity, so it doesn’t feel so lightweight. If you like the look and want this vanity for your home here’s a link.

If I had the time I could have built a better vanity. This is definitely something I will do for my own bathroom.

Once the sink and countertop were in, the vanity felt more substantial. And I do love that countertop! I used the same marble look-a-like quartz countertop as was used in the kitchen.

The last thing I want to show you in the master bathroom is the privacy film I added to the Plygem Mira window. It’s a product from Stick Pretty and I love how it lets light in but not the view of nude bathers.

I’ll be sharing the tutorial for installing the privacy film soon. It came out great!

What do you think? Do you love the master bathroom at the Saving Etta house?


(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Wall color: Wedding Band by Magnolia Home Paint

Floor Tile: Carrara Venato Polished Hexagon Nero Strip Marble Mosaic Tile by The Builder Depot

Shower Floor Tile Nero Marquina Polished Black Marble 2″ Hexagon Mosaic by the Builder Depot

Octopus Drain Cover by Designer Drains

Shower Wall Tile: White Subway Tiles by Jeffrey Court Tiles

Hanging Cone Pendant Lights from

Bath Exhaust Fan from Nutone

Sensonic Bath Fan Speaker Accessory from Nutone

Rainfall Shower Faucet Set from Rozin

48″ Farmhouse Vanity

More Saving Etta Fixture Sources Available Here

Disclosure: I received materials and/or compensation from the sponsors of the Saving Etta project. These were the bathroom sponsors: Ask for Purple, Plygem, Broan-Nutone, Schlage, Magnolia Home Paint, KILZ, Jeffrey Court Tile, Wilkinson, Designer Drains, The Builder Depot. I was not told what to write. All opinions and words are my own. As always, I will notify you if you are reading as sponsored post or if I was compensated. Rest assured I am very particular about the brands I work with. Only brands I use in my own home or that I’ve had a positive experience with will be showcased on this blog.

Saving Etta: Revealing the Downstairs Bedrooms

I’m thrilled to be able to reveal the downstairs bedrooms to you today. If there were two rooms that get me emotional in the Saving Etta house, it would be these two front bedrooms. They make up the majority of the 1900 portion of the house I was able to save. Except for the original kitchen, all the other rooms in the house were added on over the years. Unfortunately those additions weren’t built to last (or built with any building codes in mind.) Although we tried to save the original kitchen, one of the girders was completely rotted out and the rest of the floor joists were almost laying on the dirt. We determined it would be best to remove it and build completely new framing behind those front bedrooms.

Here is the proposed floor plan where I’ve highlighted the bedrooms you’re touring today:

Before we get this show on the road, I owe a huge thank you and a big shout out to all the Saving Etta sponsors. As you all know, I’m very particular about the brands I work with and I can honestly say my sponsors are the cream of the crop when it comes to selling products for your home and lifestyle.

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

Before Starting Demolition:

Before we get to the tour, I’m going to rewind the clock to show you how the rooms looked when I bought the house.

These photos are from the south bedroom (on the right when you enter from the front porch steps.)

The original mantel was still in the room. Although there was no hearth, I’m fortunate the mantel was left alone. Unfortunately the original door was replaced with a cheap hollow core door.

This room was a living room and had carpeting throughout. The moldings on the windows had some decorative trim, but otherwise the room was fairly devoid of architectural features.

The north bedroom had an identical mantel, but this room also had two closets. I think this room was used as a bedroom in recent years. But I’m not 100% sure because most of the contents had been removed because of the presence of black mold growing in here.

At first I thought the mold was caused by a roof leak, but I later learned it could be attributed to the window air conditioner unit. The moisture had been leaking down the wall and under the carpet, creating a toxic growth of black mold.

Despite this unwanted presence in the room, there was a very desirable element still in this room! See that closet door below? In the corner of the room I found one of the original 1900 doors. Luckily I also found another door to match in another local property that was slated to be completed demolished.

Demolition Begins:

After carefully removing all the carpeting from the front bedrooms, I began to pull up the particle board subfloor. It was tedious work involving a pry bar and a hammer to pull up all the nails from each board. Contrary to my initial thoughts, the particle board would only pry up in fist size pieces when I put a flat scraper underneath. Instead I had to remove ALL the nails first. Underneath a layer of resin paper, I found the old pine floor planks. I was really excited about the prospect of being able to refinish these original wood floors.

My optimism began to wane as I pulled up the sub-flooring in the south bedroom. Underneath it were several layers of vinyl, tar paper, and glued down lineoleum sheets. (Of course before pulling up these layers, I dutifully sent samples to be tested for asbestos.) When the results came back negative, I spent three days trying to get all the layers removed. But, I lost steam and this is where I stopped:

I was going to rent a floor scraper, but decided to wait for the mold remediation team to demo and clear the black mold from the north bedroom. After remediation, the full extent of the damage to the wood floor was revealed. There were many spots where the floor had rotted after being exposed to too much moisture. I also discovered patched areas using sheets of plywood in the foyer and the north bedroom.

After another trip into the crawlspace, I realized there was no subfloor under the pine planks. They were laid directly onto the joists. After wracking my brain trying to figure out how to salvage the old pine flooring (and how to find matching planks to fill in the holes), I realized my dream of restoring those original floors would be nearly impossible. Sadly, I decided to move forward and save time by putting in new flooring when the time came.

Post Asbestos Abatement:

As if that wasn’t enough of a hit to my budget, I had to test the sheet rock before demolition continued. Consequently we found asbestos in the joint compound. I quickly scheduled the asbestos abatement team (a company I had used in the past) to strip the drywall from the house. After a few days of abatement, I was finally allowed to enter the property and was greeted by this sight.

This is a view of the north bedroom (the one that previously had black mold.)

Across the hall in the south bedroom I was met with this amazing sight:

Vintage wallpaper was everywhere and it was exciting to see the little surprises hiding behind the drywall. Notice the two additional layers of wallpaper beneath the pastoral scene:

Besides the wallpaper, what made my mouth fall open was the view of the original ten foot ceilings! At some point in time the ceiling had been lowered to eight feet (most likely to make the space easier to heat).

Demo Help from Friends:

Pretty Handsome Guy, my friend Sarah, and I worked on removing the lathe to get down to the studs in the south side bedroom.

I can’t even begin to explain how sweaty, messy, and dirty this job was. The demolition required respirators and goggles. Regular dust masks were not enough protection.

Finally the entire south room was stripped down to the studs and all the lathe was thrown into the back of the house, while the insulation was shoveled into giant garbage bags. The view below is looking toward the foyer and into the north side bedroom.

You can see the big pile of lathe in the back room. During the removal of the additions, the excavator scooped it up and dropped it into the dumpster like they were a small pile of pick up sticks.

Completing Demolition:

To be completely truthful, after completing demo on the south bedroom, I had no desire to go through the same dirty demo labor in the north room. I asked my demo contractor to include that task in his bid. His guys breezed through the demo in record time. Sometimes it’s better to pay the professionals.

Below is the view from the north bedroom. The front door can be seen on the right.

This is all that was left of the house after demolition and removal of all those poorly built additions. Shortly after this photo was taken we had a big storm roll through Raleigh. I was terrified I’d find the house blown over when I made it back downtown the next day. But, this old gal was one tough old house.

Flooring Old to New:

While the footers were being dug, I set out on an excursion to find new flooring to replace the old. I was determined to find solid wood flooring with an aged appearance.

Luckily my friends at Impressions Hardwood Collection helped me find flooring perfect for a historic house. You won’t believe how good they look in the downstairs bedrooms!

With everything stripped down, it was time to rebuild. You can see the Saving Etta framing process here and a photo of the north bedroom during drywall here.

Downtairs Bedrooms Reveal:

The two downstairs bedrooms are exactly the same size as when the house was built. The walls and doorways were put back exactly where they were in 1900.

The only change was adding closets to each room to make them more functional as bedrooms.

Speaking of closets, you have to get a closer look of the beautiful door knobs and paint color.

The knobs are by Schlage and are the Hobson series glass knobs with Century backplates. I fell head over heels in love with these knobs and wish I could replace all the door knobs in my house with them.

The closet doors (and all new doors in the house) were painted Cupola by Magnolia Home paint.

You’ll notice the bedroom doors were left wood. After stripping the many layers of paint off them, I couldn’t bring myself to cover up the old growth wood grain and square peg construction. I felt their beauty needed to be appreciated and serve as a conversation starter for guests.

Hopefully a future homeowner won’t be tempted to paint them. ;-(

Because, then you wouldn’t see the beautiful square peg construction:

Isn’t it amazing how those Schlage glass knobs look beautiful on both natural wood and painted doors?

Speaking of amazing, let’s talk about attractive ceiling fans. If you live in the south, you know ceiling fans are non-negotiable. It’s important to have them for comfort. For years I was resigned to the fact that ceiling fans were utilitarian and therefore not stylish. (Or the stylish fans I found were too expensive for my budget.) Alas, that was before I discovered Fanimation’s ceiling fans.  The fans I selected for the downstairs bedrooms are the Distinction Fan with mix and match blades and light kits.

The white blades are a trick I use to help the fan disappear against the white ceiling. A schoolhouse glass light kit offers a subtle vintage appearance.

The north bedroom was staged an office, and as you can tell, the same Fanimation Distinction fan is right at home with modern decor.

When the fan is turned on, the blades virtually disappear:

Let’s talk about the other finishes in the bedrooms. You probably can’t take your eyes off the beautiful wood floors, right?! They are from the Impressions Hardwood Collection, Elegance Series in Flint stain color. The Elegance series is a pre-finished hardwood floor with a low luster top coat. It receives a wire brushing to bring out the grain in the wood, giving it an aged and antique look. Well, what do you think? Is the Elegance Series flooring a good solution for not being able to save the original?

One of the other original features I couldn’t save were the windows. They had no weights in them, and several of the panes had been repaired with plexiglass. Plus, I needed to block some of the sound from the street. Instead, I worked with the folks at Plygem to select windows that fit with the style of this historic house. These are Plygem Mira windows with a black frame interior and white exterior. What makes them so beautiful is the simulated divided light grilles. You’d have to get super close to see the grilles are on the outside of the glass, but there is a divider in between the energy efficient panes of glass.

Plygem Mira Simulated divided light windows

Best of all, they help block outdoor street noises. I chose double hung windows. Want to know why? Double hung means the upper and lower sashes move independently. Did you know if you lower the top sash and raise the bottom window, hot air will flow out the top and cool air rushes into the room from the bottom. It’s a natural way to cool a room in the summer!

Can we all agree, these rooms are the heart of the Saving Etta house?

What do you think? Do you like the flooring I chose?

What about those natural wood doors? Would you paint them? I hope not. Let me know if you have any questions in the comment section.

Disclosure: Impressions Hardwood Collection, Schlage, Fanimaton, Magnolia Home Paint and Plygem were all sponsors of the Saving Etta project. I was provided with complimentary products to use in the Saving Etta house. I was not told what to write or say about the products. 

Earlier this week when I showed you the master bedroom in the Saving Etta house, you probably noticed the sliding barn door. I am in love with that door and especially excited that I was able to salvage the old beadboard and repurpose it as cladding on the barn door. Now it’s time to show you How to Build a Reclaimed Wood Sliding Barn Door. Let’s get building!

Notes about Materials:

To build your custom barn door you’re going to need to purchase a 4×8 sheet of plywood. The plywood will offer strength and rigidity and will add some thickness to the barn door. You don’t need to buy the finish grade plywood, instead purchase the cheapest plywood you can find because it will be covered up. One side will get a sheet of masonite bead board, and the other will be clad with the reclaimed lumber. And the sides will get trimmed out to hide the layers. So, as long as your plywood isn’t warped, it won’t matter how it looks. For my door I used 3/4″ plywood, but it was heavy. You may want to use 1/2″ plywood instead, but be sure to check the thickness requirements for your barn door track and hardware. This will ultimately dictate your width and weight!

Stripping Paint and Lead Paint Warning:

When you are using reclaimed wood, always test any paint with an instant lead check swab. Or treat it like it is lead paint. Because of the age of the bead board, I’m pretty sure my wood had lead paint. Before stripping lead paint, you definitely need to wear a dust mask or respirator and gloves. Eye protection is a good idea. And since my HEPA vacuum is loud, I wear hearing protection too.

Put down a plastic sheet under your work area and onto the floor. Make sure the sheet extends enough in each direction to catch any wayward paint chips.

The one thing you never want to do with lead paint is create airborne particles. This means you never want to dry sand it or use power tools to remove the paint. In the video, I’ll show you how I prefer to remove lead paint. In the past, I have used a chemical stripper like CitriStrip (although, the CitriStrip has a lot fewer chemicals than other strippers, it still makes a gooey mess). Instead, I found this ProScraper tool on Amazon and thanks to the recommendation of my friend at The Craftsman’s Blog, this is my new go to tool for paint stripping.

To use the ProScraper, clamp your wood to the table top. Use the ProScraper tool attached to a HEPA vacuum hose. While the vacuum is on, use firm pressure and pull the ProScraper towards you. It will take several passes to remove all the paint. Especially if your wood is old like mine and has over 100 years of paint layers on it.

After you finish scraping, be sure to vacuum up any paint chips and dust around your work area. Use a disposable damp rag to clean off the wood and remove any remaining dust.

When you are finished, place the damp rag and any other disposables into the center of the plastic sheet. Carefully gather the plastic sheet in towards its center. Deposit the plastic sheet and trash in a sealed plastic trash bag. Clean your work area to remove any remaining paint dust.

Tools & Materials:

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

In case you are curious, these are the other tools in my workshop

Video Tutorial:

Feel free to watch the full tutorial for making this reclaimed wood barn door below in the video tutorial.

Don’t forget to subscribe to my YouTube Channel for more DIY video tutorials and tips.

Subscribe to my YouTube Channel

Time to cut your materials. Measure and mark the size of your door on the plywood and masonite bead board sheet. (Be sure to add two inches to your door opening so the barn door will cover the opening.)

measure and mark on plywood for door size

mark size of door on masonite bead board

Cut your wood with a circular saw, or if you have one, use a track saw! I’ve found this battery-powered track saw by DeWalt to be invaluable for cutting down large sheets. Because it runs on batteries I can even bring it with me to the store and cut the materials in the parking lot if necessary!

using DeWalt battery-powered track saw to cut plywood

The hanging hardware for my barn door has a small bar that mounts on the floor. I needed to cut a groove into the bottom of my door to accept the bar and keep it from swinging back and forth when opening or closing.

use Dremel Saw Max to cut groove in bottom of barn door

Add a fair amount of construction adhesive to one side of your plywood door. Then lay the masonite bead board sheet onto the plywood and press firmly into the glue. Drive a few brad nails into the masonite to keep it in place as the glue cures.

lay bead board on top of plywood

Flip your door over and start laying out the border design. Did you know these are the back sides of the bead board? So pretty!

dry fit border on barn door

Apply construction adhesive under the border pieces and set them in place. Then add some brad nails to hold it until the glue cures.

nail border pieces in place on reclaimed wood barn door

I decided to sand the border pieces to remove any rough edges and splinters, but made sure not to sand too much or I’d lose the dark weathered look.

To cut the interior bead board pieces, cut one end of the boards at a 45˚ angle. Then set them into the border frame. Using a ruler and pencil, mark where to cut the other side.

cutting bead board to fit in border on door

Test the fit of your bead board. Continue marking and cutting all the bead board pieces. Make sure they all fit before moving on.

almost all bead board pieces dry fit in reclaimed wood door border

Secure all the interior pieces with construction adhesive and brad nails. You might find your last piece isn’t as wide as your boards, cut this piece on a band saw or jig saw if necessary and fit in place.

To hide the plywood, rip pieces of bead board or use flat trim to finish the edges of your door.

nailing trim on door sides

Use a polycrylic or water-based top coat to seal the door (and prevent exposure to any lead paint left on the door). I prefer the General Finishes High Performance Flat top coat. What I like about it is it has no sheen. The top coat protects the wood while letting the beauty of the grain show, and there’s no shine to detract from the wood.

And now onto the reveal!

I purchased the Barn Door Hardware and Barn Door Handle from Amazon and was very happy with the quality.

What do you think? Do you like how I reused the bead board? I hope the door lives for decades in the Saving Etta home.

Saving Etta: Master Bedroom Reveal

I’m so happy with how the Saving Etta Master Bedroom looks and can’t wait to show you the reveal. As you can probably tell, I took a bit of a risk with the paint color in this room and I’m so glad I did. Before I invite you all the way into this cozy and luxurious bedroom, I’d like to thank the sponsors of the Saving Etta project for helping make this 1900 dilapidated house into a beautiful home sure to be cherished for another 100 years or more.

(I’ve included affiliate links for your convenience. I earn a small percentage from a purchase using these links. There is no additional cost to you. You can read more about affiliate links here.)

A Look Back:

The master bedroom has come a long way since I bought the house in June of 2017. Let’s take a look at the master bedroom in the Saving Etta house shortly after I purchased it.

This room had a small closet and a door leading to the only bathroom in the house. What you can’t see is the floor was sloping at least two inches from one end to the other.

Swapping Rooms:

The master bedroom was moved from one side of the back of the house to the other. This made room for a large open concept living room and kitchen.

Sound Reduction:

You may have noticed the master bedroom is on the other side of the wall from the living room. I knew this would be the ideal area for the TV. A tall vaulted ceiling meant lots of noise echoing around the living room.

To combat any potential marital spats over one spouse watching late night TV while the other tries to sleep, I chose to add SoundBreak drywall by AskforPurple.

soundbreak purple drywall

You can read more about this amazing noise reducing drywall and how I added sound proofing between the rooms.

three guys installing purple drywall

The Reveal:

Ready to see the reveal of this beautiful master bedroom?

A big shout out to Minted Spaces for doing a phenomenal job on the staging! I found them on Instagram and am so glad I paid for them to come stage the house. They made this home look so cozy and stylish.

Did you see happen to catch the Leviton USB charging plug above? Now you can free up outlets for electronics while still charing your devices. Learn how to install your own USB charging outlets in this tutorial I wrote for you.

Looking around the room, it’s hard to avoid the wood mantel and faux chalkboard fireplace.

As you probably guessed, the mantel is original to the house. It’s one of two from the original 1900 portion of the house. I carefully removed both of them from the house before demolition.

Then I had them dipped and stripped to remove the lead paint.

After mounting the mantel to the wall, I painted the inside with black chalkboard paint and drew a faux fireplace with chalk.

Even though it’s not a working fireplace, it still creates a cozy feeling in this master bedroom.

Speaking of cozy, I decided to paint the master bedroom a moody dark color to make the room feel warm and enveloping. Hopefully this room is exactly what the homeowners will crave at the end of a long day. The color I chose is Duke Gray by Magnolia Home. My painters loved this paint because it has great coverage (and that’s important especially when painting a dark color.)

Duke Gray is a muted blue-green color and it works well with all colors. The homeowners should be able to accessorize with some colorful accent colors if they want.

Solid Wood Floors:

I’m sure you can’t help notice the star of this room, those gorgeous solid wood floors from the Impressions Hardwood Collection.

When I found out I couldn’t save the original wood flooring in the house, I went on the hunt for wood floors that looked aged and wouldn’t stick out as brand new.

The Impressions Hardwood Collection offered a lot of options to choose from. It was hard to decide, until…

…I laid the old flooring on top of these two samples.

Both were from the Elegance Series by Impressions Hardwood Collection. The lighter color is called Wheat and the darker stain is called Flint. They both look similar to the original flooring, but I felt the Flint had a more aged appearance. I also liked the matte wire-brushed finish. The Elegance series floors have all the advantages of solid wood flooring, without the look of a glossy shiny new floor.

And the wide planks offer a classic look that’s sure to look great over the years (even when they start to show signs of distressing and age like the original floors had.)

Salvaged Beauty:

Speaking of age, you’re going to love the way I reused the original bead board salvaged from the walls of the house before demolition.

pretty handy girl sledgehammer exposed bead board

Can you spot the reclaimed bead board below?

How about now? I built a custom sliding barn door for the master closet and used the bead board.

Each piece of bead board was stripped of its paint (most likely lead paint) using this pro-scraper tool hooked up to a HEPA vacuum. Then I sealed the door with General Finishes High Performance Flat Top Coat for a matte finish that seals in the paint and shows off the beautiful wood grain.

The sliding barn door track and door handle are from Amazon.

Back in the bedroom, I encourage you to take a look up at the ceiling.

That sexy modern ceiling fan is from Fanimation and is the Zonix Wet indoor or outdoor fan. I chose the Matte Greige color finish and think they look great with the black trim and dark walls. The fan is easily controlled by a remote control or a wall switch.

Right outside the master bedroom is an extra little surprise. All you have to do is slide open the beautiful Plygem Mira sliding patio door and step outside?

Can you see it?

Just outside the sliding door is a small extension of the deck.

It’s the perfect spot to sit and have coffee in the morning.

Or enjoy this view all day long! Want to see more of the backyard transformation? You can see all the work we did to transform it in this blog post.

after view of landscaped saving etta yard

I hope you enjoyed the tour of the master bedroom. What did you think about the dark wall color? Did you love it or not your cup of tea? Stay tuned! I’ll have more reveals for you soon!

Disclosure: Impressions Hardwood Collection, Fanimaton, Leviton, Magnolia Home Paint and AskforPurple were all sponsors of the Saving Etta project. I was provided with complimentary products to use in the Saving Etta house. I was not told what to write or say about the products.